Review: Bacchus Airways Hotel – Business Advantage PNG

The Airways Hotel’s Bacchus Restaurant is a much-loved institution that has reopened after renovations. Its menu taught us that “in with the new, out with the old” does not apply to already perfectly crafted concoctions.

Wagyu fillet and baked lobster. Credit: Airways Hotels

Port Moresby’s signature fine-dining restaurant, Bacchus Restaurant at the Airways Hotel, has reopened after renovations – you might even say it’s Bacchus style.

Bacchus was the Roman god of wine who had the distinction of being reborn after, in the words of a scribe, being “ripped to pieces” in battle. Thankfully, the second coming of its namesake, Port Moresby’s signature fine-dining restaurant at the Airways Hotel, has been less dramatic.

Management has opted for a careful renovation, but has carefully retained the old-world elegance that made it the favored location for corporate functions and high-powered restaurants during the PNG LNG boom years.

Likewise, the menu has been refined rather than reinvented. So I only had to taste the classic “fresh locally caught” tuna sashimi, which luckily didn’t change at all. It’s hard to imagine tuna, or indeed any fish, tasting better than this.

Bacchus has reopened after a careful renovation. Credit: Hotel Airways

For the purposes of this review (honestly), I thought I’d try the Tuscan White Bean Soup as well. Although this is one of my favourites, I was aware that it was a rather warm choice for PNG’s tropical climate. So I was pleased to find that it had been made into a smooth liquid (rather than containing whole beans) and tasted rich and balanced.

Wagyu steaks stand out in a very varied main course menu.

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For the ultimate indulgence, order the duo of Pan-Seared Wagyu Fillet and Baked Lobster. Instead, I opted for the excellent roast duck breast with star anise, served with baby vegetables, roasted apple and gastric with blueberries (sweet and sour sauce).

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